The Harz and Goslar!

Panoramic view from the Brocken
At the top of the Brocken


I don’t know why, but when I see the name Goslar, I say it with an exclamation point. Goslar! Maybe it should even be GOSLAR! In any case, last weekend’s daytrip to Goslar(!) was full of medieval history, fun, and witches.

“Witches? Did she actually say ‘witches’?” Why yes. Goslar is part of the Harz, a mountain range famous for its Brocken, the highest peak in Northern Germany where, according to legend, witches held their annual gathering on April 30.

In Goethe’s Faust, the devil took Faust to the Brocken on Walpurgis Night (April 30):

Now to the Brocken the witches ride;
The stubble is gold and the corn is green;
There is the carnival crew to be seen,
And Squire Urianus will come to preside.
So over the valleys our company floats,
With witches a-farting on stinking old goats.

Hans Baldung Grien, Witches Sabbath, 1510. Woodcut toned print. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg.

And who could forget Black Sabbath’s ode to the Brocken with their song “Walpurgis“?

Ah, but today, Goslar and the Brocken have more friendly witches, more of the Bewitched-type or the Witch Hazel (a là Bugs Bunny)-type.

It’s quaint, it’s almost comedic. But then you see something haggard almost leap out at you from BEHIND glass. No, that’s not funny at all. NOT AT ALL.


The Kaiserpfalz

Goslar has much more than witches, of course. It was a favored town of emperors. The imperial palace (Kaiserpfalz) served as a seat of power when the emperor came to town. The other iron throne, so to speak.



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The Alt Stadt and the Mines of Rammelsberg here are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. And, fun fact, part of Monuments Men was filmed in Goslar.

And some of my favorite medieval beings were found here…



Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel


Go see Wes Anderson’s latest film when it comes to town. Amazingly rich and funny and sweet and quirky and really, for me, just as fabulous as his sophomore effort Rushmore.


The familiar and not-so-familiar faces of the Wes Anderson players…